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Summit Systems Slot Machine Maintenance

We only support Bally Machines that were converted by Summit Systems Inc. Please inquire about Summit Systems Slot Machine Parts. We do not support any other machine types.  If you call looking for telephone support,  I have to cover my time.  It will be necessary to obtain credit card  info to cover my time.  The first 15 minutes are free.  After that, $30 in 15 minute chunks.

Note: The coin out meter needs to be working near 100% for trouble shooting the electronics.  This is because the coin out meter is used to display tilt codes relative to the failures.

Reel Assembly Plugs: The two plugs at the back of the machine are notorious for making poor connection.  Especially for low voltage circuits (coin out meter and the coin-in switch and more).  If you see signs of oxidation on the pins, I recommend 'polishing' the pins with a Dremel tool and soft brass wire brush.  Be careful not to wear off the tin plating.  The brass under the tin plating oxidizes.  So any exposed brass of the pins will shortly no longer make connection.  After polishing the male pins, spray the female connectors with contact cleaner.  Then insert and pull out the reel assembly 10-20 times which will help to 'wipe' some oxidation from the female pins.  This process may need to be repeated (spray and insert) if poor connections are still noticeable.

Coin-Diverter: I recommend that the coin-diverter be disabled.  The coin-diverter coil buzzes something terrible.  If you cut the wire going to the coil and then tie back the armature so that coins are deflected into the hopper, then the buzzing stops and the machine works just fine.

Launch Switch: There is a switch on the lower left side of the reel assembly that has to toggle (actuate) as the reels are launched.  The switch has a black and a green wire solder to in and plugs into the back of the main circuit board.  This switch signals the slot controller board that the 'game has started'.  The launch switch has an adjustment (the mounting plate moves).  Also, the launch mechanism has an adjustment that set the trigger point of the launch.  It the reels fail to spin (catch) the launce trigger will need adjustment (no power when launching the reels)

Hopper: Usually the hopper needs no maintenance.  Maybe the coin-out switch and again those pesky connectors.  There is an adjustment for the coin size at the rear of the lever with the roller.  The coin-out switch should trigger about 2/3 of the way up the coin.

Coin Switches: The coin-in and the coin-out switches do go bad.  If you have an ohmmeter, you can check the resistance of the switches as you activate them.  The resistance should toggle from open (infinity) to closed very low resistance (less than 10 ohms).  If the resistance changes without toggling the switch then the switch should be replaced.

Coin mechanism & coin accept coil: Once in a while the coin mechanism will need cleaning and lubrication.  IF coins seam to stick now and then (not bent) try some contact cleaner on the moving parts.  There is 'usually' a coil behind the coin mechanism).  The coil pulls in an armature which allows coins to drop thru to the coin-in switch.  This coil/armature is sometimes removed.  The purpose of this mechanism is to prevent too many coins from being accepted.  Also the 'coin lockout coil' is de-energized once the game has started and is only re-energized (to accept coins) when the game is complete.  This mechanism us usually removed when an electronic coin mechanism has been installed in place of the mechanical coin mechanism.



Reels: The reels need to spin freely and should free spin for at least 20 seconds (or longer).  If you have to pull the reels off the axel for cleaning and lubricating the bearings, be sure to mark the reels with their position.  Putting the reels back in the wrong order will make the game not work correctly (all 3 reels have symbols in different positions).

Stop mechanism: The stopping mechanisms should all react about the same.  You can test by manually launching the reels and then depressing the reels stop solenoids.  If any of the mechanism is sticky then the reel won't stop correctly and you will get a tilt.

Note: I have found that 'brake cleaner' works really well at dissolving sticky grease.

Note: On rare occasion is may be necessary to disassemble some parts of the mechanisms.

Note: WD-40 seems to work well for lubrication.  Be careful not to get any WD-40 on the rubber piece inside the damper tube (white tube on the right side of the reel assembly).  If the rubber part is sticky or melted, disassemble the damper mechanism, clean it thoroughly and re-assemble without the rubber part.  That damper assembly prevents the handle for flying back when the handle is released when launching the reels.